Mac and cheese

Macaroni and cheese. (Katie Falkenberg / September 27, 2011)

Mac 'n' cheese with soubise

Total time: 1½ hours

Servings: 6

Note: Adapted from Michael Ruhlman's "Ruhlman's Twenty."

Soubise

1/4 cup (½ stick) butter, divided

1 onion, sliced

Kosher salt

1 shallot, roughly chopped

3 tablespoons flour

1 1/2 cups milk

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

3 tablespoons sherry

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 to 2 teaspoons dry mustard

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

6 or 7 gratings of fresh nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon cayenne or smoked paprika

1. Melt half the butter in a medium pan over medium heat and add the onion and a four-fingered pinch (about one-fourth teaspoon) of salt. Cook, stirring until the onion is nicely caramelized, about 20 minutes.