Market Watch: The latest farmers market news by David Karp
October 25, 2013
The 19-year-old Encino farmers market is one of the two best in the San Fernando Valley, because of its large size and quality, and its preponderance of farmers over prepared food. It's on a par with Studio City, which the manager, Carole Gallegos, ran until 2011, but it's in a pleasanter location, in a park, with better parking. The market's earnings go to ONEgeneration, a respected nonprofit that provides care to seniors and children.
October 18, 2013
The Culver City farmers market has been one of the best weekday markets on the Westside since its establishment in 1995. It has 30 farmers, enough to offer a good selection, and about 35 food and craft vendors clustered on the southern and eastern sides. The market has flourished along with the stores and restaurants in the downtown area, and has a casual, friendly ambience, busy but not frenetic.
October 11, 2013
Because of its size and the diversity of its offerings, Tuesday Torrance is arguably the best weekday farmers market after Santa Monica. Founded by the city in 1985, its sales are only half those of the busier Saturday market in the same location at Charles H. Wilson Park, but it has almost as many farmers. Parking is easier on Tuesdays, and a higher proportion of customers come to shop for produce, not just to hang out after visiting the park, say vendors.
October 5, 2013
California farmers raise vast quantities of wheat, but this most basic of foods has remained an industrial commodity, absent from farmers markets. That may be changing, however, since a passionate bread baker, Andrea Crawford of Kenter Canyon Farms, launched her "farm to toaster" program this week, selling locally grown heritage wheatberries and freshly milled flour, and artisanal bread baked from it, at the Santa Monica Wednesday and Hollywood markets. Some of the breads sampled so far are superb, and Kenter's venture heralds a coming wave of local grain.
September 27, 2013
The decade-old Brentwood farmers market is the largest of the 20 venues run by the Raw Inspiration group, stretching for almost a quarter mile down Gretna Green Way from San Vicente Boulevard to Montana Avenue. It’s a flourishing event with a relaxed vibe, less crowded than nearby Pacific Palisades, less of a scene than Santa Monica Wednesday.
September 22, 2013
September 14, 2013
YUMA, Ariz.— On an arid mesa in the southwestern corner of Arizona, surrounded by scrubland, cotton and alfalfa fields, grow 2,700 acres of Medjool date palms, most of them young and just starting to bear. Few people know about this orchard yet, but it's the largest planting of Medjools in the world, in a state where dates were a minor crop until just recently.
September 7, 2013
Keiko and Frank Wells of Westfield Farm are best known for their avocados, which Keiko, with a gentle smile, carefully classifies by ripeness at the Beverly Hills farmers market. For a few months in late summer and in fall, however, they also sell sudachi, a lime-like Japanese citrus related to yuzu, but smaller, juicier, less seedy and slightly more acidic. With a distinctive spicy aroma evoking lime, pepper, dill and cumin, it is used to flavor soups, fish dishes and matsutake mushrooms. Unlike yuzu, the juice, rather than the rind, is most prized.
August 31, 2013
Commercial apple varieties mostly lack the intensity, complexity and idiosyncrasies of the finest older and specialty kinds, for which the prime season has just begun. It's a good time to review the most flavorful varieties that will be available at local farmers markets over the next few months.
August 24, 2013
In a hardscrabble district of South El Monte, near a decommissioned missile site, tucked away behind a warehouse filled with Chinese sunglasses, lies a secret orchard bearing a rare and mysterious Asian fruit. It's the work of a wealthy Taiwanese man, Lung Ke Wu, who drilled holes in the asphalt to plant his own paradise and who is now causing jaws to drop when he sells the fruit, called wax apples, at farmers markets.
12:35 PM EDT, August 16, 2013
Old Pasadena's rocky experience with farmers markets may have come to an end. Two of them failed about a decade ago. But now it looks like the third time may be the charm.
August 9, 2013
In gorgeously striped Panachee figs, which are being harvested commercially for the first time this month, the beauty is more than skin deep. Ripe specimens have super-sweet, jam-like pulp, with a counterbalancing acidity uncommon in other varieties and an intense berry flavor.
August 3, 2013
Redlands is one of the last agricultural zones left in the Inland Empire, and its Saturday morning farmers market — though overshadowed by its giant Thursday brother — is thriving. But while the Thursday market seems to be primarily a social event, dominated by prepared foods, music and crafts, the Saturday morning market features many small, local growers who sell in person and offer a good balance of basic and specialty produce.
July 26, 2013
PASO ROBLES, Calif. — For the diversity and high quality of their heirloom fruit, vegetables and meats, and the integrity of their principles, no vendors at local markets excel Barbara and Bill Spencer of Windrose Farm. Several other growers do a first-class job on just fruit or vegetables, but no one else comes close to pulling off a trifecta like the Spencers. They do so much it seems impossible, and actually it may well be.
July 20, 2013
Of all the rare fruit at Southern California markets, none is more elusive or more obsessively hunted than the humble sour cherry. The fruit is readily available canned or frozen, but these days bakers, jam makers and home cooks really want fresh. And though sweet cherries have become commonplace, sours, which are also called tart or pie cherries, are hardly grown here at all.
July 12, 2013
Most of the best plums and Pluots — sweet or sweet-tart, with rich flavor — cluster in midseason, from mid-July to mid-August. Even now there are plenty of mediocrities, however, so it pays to keep a list of what to look for or avoid.
3:49 PM EDT, July 5, 2013
PAUMA VALLEY, Calif. — The vista from the foothills of Mt. Palomar recalls classic citrus labels, a sea of green dotted with bright orange fruits. Frost-free, with south-facing slopes, pure water and good drainage, this is among the best land in Southern California for growing Valencia oranges and one of the last redoubts for an iconic but besieged crop.
2:08 PM EDT, June 28, 2013
Great peaches are available at local markets from June well into the fall, but July is really the heart of the season for the San Joaquin Valley, the state's largest growing area. Early peaches tend to be small, watery and clingstone, and late varieties can be dry and mealy, but right now we're in the sweet spot when many standard commercial varieties are freestone, with luscious melting texture and rich aroma.
June 21, 2013
Funding for the state certified farmers market program will likely expire at the end of December as a result of legislative maneuvering in Sacramento. The interruption may be just a month or so, and farmers markets would continue to exist during that period, but market oversight would be curtailed — just the opposite of what many stakeholders were aiming for from California State Legislature.
1:17 PM EDT, June 14, 2013
At many Southern California certified farmers markets, the vendors may comply with agricultural regulations but still offer only mediocre produce and may never have actually set foot on a farm. Paradoxically, the Antelope Valley Winery farmers market in Lancaster is uncertified — not supervised by county or state agricultural authorities — but it's the best in its area, boasting really fresh produce, much of it organic, from nearby small farms. Flanked by trellised grapevines, it's small but picturesque, and much beloved by local customers and growers.
June 7, 2013
This week may be the best of the year for high-flavored fruit that's worth a special trip to local farmers markets, because it's almost never available elsewhere.
May 31, 2013
After a month of mediocre early-season apricots, the prime varieties, sweet, juicy and flavorful, are here or will be soon. Beyond the celebrated Blenheim, there are other worthwhile varieties, and a few are even better. Here are the leading apricots and apricot-like hybrids, in order of ripening, rated on a scale of 1 to 10 for flavor. The crop is about a week early this year and looks good in size and quality.
6:03 PM EDT, May 24, 2013
A bill that for the first time would have provided substantial resources for state and county inspectors to keep cheaters out of farmers markets was held by the California Assembly Appropriations Committee on Friday afternoon. That means the bill is effectively dead for the year, leaving the dozens of managers and stakeholders who worked for its passage greatly disappointed.
6:02 PM EDT, May 17, 2013
Among the most intriguing May peaches are three patented by Alan and Lori Asdoorian of Kingsburg, whose century-old Island Farms lies between two branches of the Kings River, southeast of Fresno.
May 10, 2013
Fishermen selling their own catch at Southern California farmers markets are vanishing. An attractive alternative is Community Seafood, a "community-supported fishery" that started selling last Sunday at the Santa Monica Main Street farmers market. Founded by two marine scientists, Sarah Rathbone and Kim Selkoe, it seeks to support local fisheries and provide ultra-fresh, sustainably caught fish to subscribers.
May 3, 2013
In some ways farmers markets are a natural fit at universities, where many students crave healthful, local and organic produce. However, schools are largely closed during summer, the busiest season for markets, and the managers — if students run the market — move on regularly, when they graduate. Such are the challenges at the recently established UCLA market, which is small and operates just twice each academic quarter but is a hit with students and staff.
April 27, 2013
Traditionally, working folk dreamed of retiring to California to grow citrus, or more recently wine grapes, but these days the second career crop of choice appears to be artisanal olive oil. Fresh, local oil is all the rage; universities and industry groups help guide aspiring growers, and once their groves start bearing, many sell at farmers markets, where they earn premium prices and enjoy schmoozing with shoppers. Mark Mooring of Buon Gusto Farms followed an unusual version of this path, from starting the Los Angeles Police Department K-9 Platoon to growing olives in Ventura, where he produces richly flavored, award-winning oils.
April 20, 2013
For many years, Maggie's Farm, based in Agoura Hills, has sold top-quality salad greens and herbs exclusively at farmers markets. Kenter Canyon Farms offers a wider range of similar produce, at a few farmers markets, but mostly wholesale and on a much larger scale. Many shoppers know that the two farms are owned by members of the same family, but few realize that they offer two versions, boutique and commercial, of production that now comes mostly from the same land.
2:04 PM EDT, April 5, 2013
April is generally the least abundant month for locally grown fruits, with nothing like the profusion of stone fruits in summer, apples in autumn and citrus in winter. But there's still plenty of great choices at farmers markets, particularly for shoppers alert to the rhythm of seasons and growing areas.
March 29, 2013
As certified farmers markets have proliferated in California over the past decade, it has become clear that many of their managers lack crucial knowledge of their responsibilities. In response to this problem, veteran managers and the California Department of Food and Agriculture have devised a new program that will shortly hold training sessions for managers around the state.
March 22, 2013
A bill recently introduced in the California Assembly, AB 996, would substantially change the operations and governance of the state's certified farmers markets, strengthening some enforcement provisions and weakening others. The bill would renew authorization for the state's role in the program, including penalties for cheaters, which are now scheduled to expire at the end of 2013. Its provisions, which will likely be modified in coming months, currently include:
2:21 PM EDT, March 15, 2013
Rhubarb is one of the great joys of spring, with its rosy color, earthy tang and old-fashioned allure, and the story of its local rise and fall is as intriguing as its flavor. Just a generation or two ago, it was widely cultivated in Southern California, but now local rhubarb is available almost exclusively at farmers markets, and just from a handful of vendors.
1:07 PM EST, March 8, 2013
Locally raised pork is rare in Southern California, but in a hilly grapefruit grove north of San Diego, fenced to exclude mountain lions, 14 tasty piglets luxuriate, fattening for sale at the Santa Monica farmers market. They're the dream or folly of Oliver Woolley, who raises heritage pigs.
March 1, 2013
— The cherimoya is a peculiar-looking, almost intimidating fruit — "like a pre-Columbian jade pine cone or the finial for a giant Inca four-poster bed," in Elizabeth Schneider's memorable words. But at its best it tastes sublime, with sweet, juicy, flan-like flesh and rich flavor blending papaya, banana and pineapple. Mark Twain famously called it "the most delicious fruit known to men," and if taste were all that counted, cherimoyas might outsell apples.
February 23, 2013
The Irvine Saturday farmers market is the largest and best in Orange County, but it's a mixed bag. It has some worthy local small farmers who come in person, along with more commercial farms, and even a few who have been sanctioned previously for cheating by agricultural authorities or other managers.
February 16, 2013
The prepared food vendors at local farmers markets cater to a world of tastes and ethnicities, from Filipino balut to halal shawarma, but until recently none served observant Jews who follow kosher dietary laws. It fell to a secular Jew, Michele Grant, fresh off the success of her Grilled Cheese Truck, to fill that niche, offering a flavorful, healthy twist on traditional kosher cooking, strictly supervised by the Rabbinical Council of California.
February 9, 2013
As part of a great California olive oil boom, now at least a dozen olive oil vendors are selling at local farmers markets, up from only a couple a decade ago. Most offer a good product, but there are few who, like Michael O'Brien of Paso Gold, provide local, fresh, high-quality, certified organic oil, sold by the farmer himself in the agricultural section of the market.
February 3, 2013
Farmers Markets: With respected leader back in L.A. County, attention turns to inspections on shoestring budget
For many years, when managers grew frustrated about lax enforcement at Los Angeles farmers markets, they would cry, "If only Ed Williams were here!"
January 25, 2013
Midwinter is peak time for citrus to be eaten fresh, and this year quality has been superb, probably because of the extended heat earlier in the growing season. Here are tips about which varieties to look for now and from which growing areas, including recommended growers, tips for choosing and using, and potential pitfalls. For each type there's also a peek at what the future has to offer.
January 18, 2013
FALLBROOK — Jim Russell's macadamia orchard looks like a park, 3 acres of holly-like evergreens growing above closely cropped grass. A casual observer would never suspect that it represents a relic of a bygone boom, a source of uniquely delicious nuts and one man's triumph over paralysis.
January 11, 2013
DE LUZ — High on a hill overlooking an idyllic vista of citrus, avocados and chaparral, Bill Vogel spied a tree loaded with an unexpected bounty and started to holler.
December 29, 2012
Although summer claims many of the sexiest, most attention-grabbing vegetables, such as eggplants, tomatoes, peppers and zucchini, in Southern California the vegetables that thrive in winter are equally abundant and alluring. Roots, crucifers and peas may be available year-round, but winter is their time to shine. In the spirit of the many award ceremonies held in this season, here are some of my favorite early winter vegetables and producers who do an extraordinary job with them, based on notes, photos and tastings over the last 14 years.
December 21, 2012
Mandarins at their best are the noblest of citrus, with intense, complex aromatics and fascinating varietal identities. Two clementine-tangelo crosses prized for their rich flavor, Page and Lee, are now in peak season and well worth searching out. Page long been a favorite at farmers markets, and recently commercial growers have caught on and planted them on a larger scale. Its half-sister, Lee, is rare in California but arguably has even more extraordinary flavor.
December 14, 2012
The great advantage of Southern California farmers markets — year-round availability of fresh, local produce — can sometimes backfire by obscuring the seasonal rhythm of crops and growing areas. For example, carrots, grapefruits, nuts and avocados are always available from somewhere but not always at their best; it's up to shoppers to learn the difference.
December 7, 2012
Kiwi are now plentiful at farmers markets, but they're not always easy to find in prime condition. To produce high-quality kiwis, growers need to apply crop-specific expertise in pollination, pruning, irrigation, ripening and storage. Many farmers market vendors are generalists for whom kiwis are a minor sideline, so they sometimes bring rock-hard fruit that never ripens, or improperly stored specimens that have shriveled, softened and developed off flavors. At their best, however, local recently harvested kiwis have an intense vibrancy that is often missing in long-stored commercial fruit.
2:06 PM EST, November 30, 2012
At their best, clementines are among the finest of citrus fruits, easy to peel, seedless, with firm but juicy flesh and a rich, well-balanced flavor. However, they can vary dramatically in quality, depending on the exact variety, the season, where they're grown, how they're grown and how they're packed and stored. For anyone who has fallen in love with this fruit only to be disappointed later, it is worth understanding these factors before shopping, whether at grocery stores or at farmers markets.
5:11 PM EST, November 23, 2012
Valencia, Spain – Detailing the ancestry of sweet orange has been a long-sought prize for citrus scientists. On Friday, the leader of a group that has been analyzing the genetic makeup of citrus said in a scientific talk that the ponkan -- a large, loose-skinned type of mandarin widely cultivated in Asia and Brazil -- was the likely father of the sweet orange.
November 17, 2012
OROSI, Calif. — Easy to peel and nearly seedless, with tender flesh and tangy mandarin flavor, satsumas are one of the most popular farmers market fruits around Thanksgiving. Farmers like them too, especially growers in cold, low-lying areas, because they ripen early, before frosts usually strike, and the tree is exceptionally cold-hardy for citrus.
12:53 PM EST, November 9, 2012
While farmers markets have proliferated in recent years, demand for fresh, local, seasonal produce has increased even faster. Several types of entrepreneurs have arisen to satisfy this demand, including specialty produce distributors, shopping services and stores that emulate the farmers market experience, such as Atwater Village Farm. One intriguing variation is the Produce Project, which buys from farmers markets and sells at "pop-up farm stands" in downtown L.A. and Mid-City.
1:01 PM EDT, November 2, 2012
When the Stokes Purple sweet potato shows up in markets next week, it's hard to say what will be more intriguing: its look, with dramatically deep purple skin and flesh, its flavor or the mystery of its origins.
2:48 PM EDT, October 26, 2012
One of the most surprising recent produce introductions is the Robert Livermore walnut, which will be coming into season in the next few weeks. The trees and the whole nuts look like conventional walnuts, but the thin seedcoat covering the kernel is vivid scarlet.
October 20, 2012
VENTUCOPA, Calif. — Pistachios are available from storage year-round, but for the next week or so, ultra-seasonal green nuts, freshly harvested and still encased in their hulls, will appear at farmers markets. Moister, softer and sweeter than regular pistachios, they have their own flavor that hints at citrus and eucalyptus. They are sold by Santa Barbara Pistachio Co., owned by the Zannon family, who started last Sunday to harvest 400 acres in the remote, pristine Cuyama Valley, midway between Santa Barbara and Bakersfield.
October 12, 2012
REEDLEY, Calif. -- Raisins are the neglected icon of California agriculture, perceived as an old-fashioned industrial commodity, devoid of seasonal sizzle. At farmers markets, however, it's well worth searching out special varieties, freshly harvested and processed by small growers.
October 5, 2012
WASCO, Calif. — California's almond harvest, which takes place from August through October, is a dusty, noisy affair, vast in scale and fascinating in its blend of agricultural and industrial processes. Sixty years ago California grew 100,000 acres of almonds, 85% of them in the northern Central Valley, from Madera to Butte counties. Mechanization, increased irrigation in the southern San Joaquin Valley (at least until recent water cutbacks) and booming exports have boosted production, and California now raises some 760,000 acres of almonds, its third largest farm commodity, after dairy and grapes. Two of the top three almond counties are Kern and Fresno, where endless vistas of almonds line the highways.
September 29, 2012
With dark blue, astringent skins, and dry, sour flesh, the ancient plums called damsons aren't good for eating fresh. When submitted to a process akin to alchemy, however, their tartness and spiciness are ideal for making preserves. Cooked down, the damson's astringency disappears, and its tannic skin imparts a gorgeous magenta color and rich, spicy flavor, while its abundant pectin confers a lusciously thick and smooth consistency.
September 22, 2012
SACRAMENTO -- More than two years after reports of widespread cheating at farmers markets, the latest state group designated to solve the problem has ended its sessions without reaching a decision about crucial enforcement issues, though it may have made enough progress to help spark legislative interest.
September 14, 2012
Two popular and successful farmers markets, in South Pasadena and Westwood, are in the process of replacing the veteran managers who helped build them.
September 7, 2012
As farmers markets have proliferated in the past decade, many communities now consider a local venue to be an essential amenity, for social as well as culinary purposes. Such was the feeling in Palms, where the Motor Avenue Improvement Assn., comprised of business owners and residents, opened a market last Sunday. It's managed by Diana Ionescu, a UCLA graduate student in urban and Latin American studies, who received advice from Pompea Smith, former director of the Hollywood market. Ionescu recruited 20 vendors, evenly split between farmers and prepared foods, and of better than average quality for a new market.
August 31, 2012
For a vision from a century ago, when farms covered Los Angeles County, there's no better time machine than Blum Ranch in Acton, southwest of Palmdale. Just off the 14 freeway, about an hour north of downtown, its 40 acres of peach and pear orchards are the largest deciduous fruit planting so close to the city. The century-old stone house, the streamlined 1940 tractor, the ancient, creaky trees and the fruit they produce are as defiantly old school as the owners, Ray and Elizabeth Billet.
August 24, 2012
The Beverly Glen farmers market, which had a soft opening last Saturday at the Glen Centre shopping mall just south of Mulholland Drive, revives an event that debuted 11 years ago. That version folded due to a lack of parking, but the reincarnation offers a new lot and free valet service. The sponsor remains Raw Inspiration a nonprofit that has in the interim grown from 5 to 21 farmers markets in the Los Angeles area, run through an operating affiliate, California Certified Farmers Markets. The Beverly Glen market has 40 stands, 16 of them farmers, with a mix of large and small growers, including veterans and novices.
August 17, 2012
LOMPOC, Calif. — A new beef vendor at the Santa Monica farmers market, Rancho San Julian is very likely the oldest continuously operated family farm in California, dating to 1816, when José de la Guerra began to raise meat for the presidio at Santa Barbara. In 1837, the governor of Alta California granted him title to the ranch, which has remained in his family for nine generations. It currently extends over 13,000 acres of grasslands and oak forest, roamed by cougars, bears and hawks, and home to 500 Angus cows and their calves. All the cattle are born and raised on the ranch, fed chiefly on its dry-farmed grass, and not given corn, hormones or antibiotics.
3:15 PM EDT, August 10, 2012
Most California apples are grown either well north of Los Angeles, in mountains, or near the coast, where cool winters and nights boost production and quality. Ojai, atrociously hot in summer, is better known for its citrus, but in some of its valleys where cold air pools, the microclimate is surprisingly suitable for apples, which were grown there on a modest scale in decades past. The possibility was clear on Monday when Cecilio Marquez and his crew harvested Galas from an 8-acre orchard, leased from a couple who bought the property from Otis Chandler, publisher of The Times from 1960 to 1980.
August 3, 2012
Among the most lamented casualties of industrial fruit commerce is the Gravenstein apple, whose intense, distinctive aroma, honeyed, floral and fruity, has lodged in the memories of many Californians, emblematic of the careless rapture of childhood. Most plantings in Sonoma, where the variety reaches perfection, have given way to wine grapes and showier, longer-storing and milder-flavored apples, but a few farmers and a Slow Food group have striven to preserve the variety. Still, few Sonoma Gravensteins show up in Southern California, which makes it all the more special that on Aug. 5 and 19, Paul Kolling of Nana Mae's Organics, who tends 75 acres of Gravensteins in Sebastopol, will be selling at the Mar Vista farmers market.
July 27, 2012
Of the dozen tomato varieties displayed at Vang Thao's stand last Saturday, one, with purplish black skin over a flaming orange ground color, stood out spectacularly. It's a new variety, Indigo Rose, pigmented by anthocyanins, the same compounds responsible for the dark color in cherries, blood oranges and red cabbages, but not previously significant in cultivated tomatoes.
2:58 PM EDT, July 20, 2012
Flanked by low-income housing, recently renovated lofts, offices and art galleries, the Historic Downtown Los Angeles farmers market, which opened two weeks ago, is a study in contrasts. Rehabilitated skid row denizens wash away stains in front of a new ballet school, while classically ornamented white buildings loom above tourists, hipsters and longtime residents of diverse ethnicities and incomes.
July 13, 2012
Harry Nicholas, who celebrates his 90th birthday Saturday, drives round-trip twice a week from southeast of Fresno to Los Angeles area farmers markets, where he is likely the oldest farmer to participate actively. As if that weren't enough, he's got the goofiest, most lovable grin in the markets, he's a snazzy dresser (partial to bolo ties and purple pimp hats) and he grows extraordinary produce.
July 6, 2012
Is it possible to turn a passion for home gardening into a career growing for farmers markets? Such is the hope of Jennifer Little and James Imhoff, who gave up successful jobs to start Little Farm Fresh in their San Gabriel yard. They have gained a cult following for their unusual heirloom produce, including cape gooseberries, Black Cobra chiles and Richmond Green Apple cucumbers, and believe that their goal — "spending time together doing what we love" — is within sight.
June 30, 2012
HANFORD, Calif. — Combining the high sugar and flavor of cherries with the larger fruit size and extended season of plums has been a longstanding dream for fruit breeders, but such crosses are difficult to make successfully so that the hybrids yield abundant high-quality fruit. Zaiger's Genetics of Modesto, the inventors of Pluots and Apriums, managed the trick, and the fruit started showing up several years ago in very small quantities at upstate farmers markets; this year vendors at local farmers markets have begun offering plum-cherry hybrids, and the first commercial orchard has started bearing fruit.
4:51 PM EDT, June 22, 2012
Spider-Manlooms incongruously on a billboard above the new Sunset Strip farmers market, which opened last Thursday in a parking lot next to the ghosts of Tower Records and Spago Hollywood. No superheroes participated in the event's gestation — just Diana Rodgers, manager of the Mar Vista market, and the sponsor, the Sunset Strip Business Assn., which has assembled an all-star roster of 26 certified farmers and 16 prepared foods stalls.
4:55 PM EDT, June 18, 2012
SANTA YNEZ, Calif. — In recent months, there's been a new farm in town with the enigmatic name the Garden of ..... and an almost mystical reputation for superb quality. From lettuce to potatoes, everything that the owners, Shu and Debby Takikawa, have offered at the Altadena and Mar Vista markets has more than lived up to the buzz.
June 8, 2012
Amid the seasonal abundance of apricots, cherries, peaches and Boysenberries, it is hard to imagine that a citrus juice would become an object of craving, but few shoppers have any idea just how sweet and flavorful late-harvest Kinnow mandarins can be. Their juice, squeezed fresh at markets by Lucio Trinidad of Piru, is shockingly deep yellow-orange, almost syrupy in texture, and intensely aromatic and sweet, with just enough balancing acidity to forestall insipidity.
5:08 PM EDT, June 1, 2012
The Altadena certified farmers market, which opened last Wednesday afternoon after weeks of anticipatory buzz, is innovative and deeply idealistic. It showcases more than half a dozen small urban farms, most of which are selling at a farmers market for the first time, and the quality of its more established farms is high enough to draw shoppers from across the region.
May 26, 2012
— It's always an event when "Farmer Al" Courchesne of Frog Hollow Farm shows up at the Santa Monica farmers market, where he'll be selling apricots and cherries for the next month. He's a celebrity farmer in the Bay Area, folksy yet sophisticated, and his fruit often matches his charisma.
4:33 PM EDT, May 18, 2012
— Early cherries are reason enough to head to the farmers market, but be careful. Erratic winter chill, freezes during bloom, hail and late rains have made for a short crop of early cherries from the southern San Joaquin Valley. But there's still plenty of great fruit available at farmers markets for those who take care to select fresh, ripe cherries of the best varieties. In the last decade, the task has become trickier, but potentially more rewarding, with the arrival of new and unfamiliar varieties.
May 11, 2012
High on a steep, terraced mountainside in Malibu, with a spectacular view of the Pacific, perches the largest and probably the only commercial planting of loquats in the United States. A pome fruit related to apples and pears, the loquat is one of the great pleasures of spring in Southern California. It has firm but juicy flesh with the texture of cantaloupe and a sweet-tart flavor evoking cherry. The irony is that it is so well-adapted and common as a backyard tree that there's little local demand for the fruit.
May 4, 2012
The intense sweetness, distinctive knobbly appearance and mysterious provenance of the Temecula Sweet mandarin have endowed the fruit with a mystique. Farmers market citrus vendors from De Luz, just a few miles from where the fruit is grown, say customers often ask for the variety and wonder what it is, but there's only one source, and that's a most secretive and gorgeous citrus farm, just west over the mountain from the suburban sprawl of Temecula. In a pristine valley of chaparral and oaks along the Santa Margarita River, the last free-flowing waterway in Southern California, across from a nature reserve where mountain lions prowl, is a 24-acre grove of Temecula Sweet.
3:55 PM EDT, April 27, 2012
Many growers proudly advertise their local origins, but when David Rosenstein of Evo Farm sells his produce on Sunday for the first time at the Mar Vista farmers market, he says he will be talking "not about food miles, but food feet."
1:27 PM EDT, April 20, 2012
THERMAL, Calif. — One of the most highly regarded farms in Northern California, Petaluma-based County Line Harvest started growing organic vegetables in the Coachella desert to extend its production in the winter and spring. For owner David Retsky, who grew up in Beverly Hills, selling to Southern California was the logical next step, and almost like coming home.
April 13, 2012
Of the many Southern Californians starting urban farms these days, few have stories more colorful than Brett and Tanya Wyatt of B&T Farm. Brett, 53, was an observant Jew studying geography at UC Davis, then a Buddhist monk in Myanmar, where he managed to flee just before the regime raided his monastery. He then earned a doctorate analyzing organic farming concepts in Chiang Mai, Thailand, where he met Tanya, 44, who supervised a farm group and grew mushrooms. A year ago he returned to California to teach computer skills at a public high school in Watts, and they promptly decided to establish an urban farm.
April 6, 2012
After Pompea Smith, who has led the Hollywood farmers market since she founded it 21 years ago, was fired Tuesday night, many questions remained as to just what had happened, and why. Official details were scant, but it is clear that the story involved financial issues, office politics and conflicting visions for the organization.
March 23, 2012
"Oh, strawberries don't taste as they used to," wrote John Steinbeck in "East of Eden." Never mind that the chapter was set a century ago; many foodies believe that industrial varieties and practices have degraded the flavor of modern strawberries. This spring we have an opportunity to test that hypothesis, as Harry's Berries has resumed growing the Chandler variety, a longtime favorite at farmers markets for its tender, juicy flesh and classic strawberry flavor.
March 16, 2012
March 8, 2012
Located in a narrow canyon four miles north of Santa Paula, Mud Creek Ranch combines a historic family homestead, a commercial organic citrus and avocado orchard and a mystery zone where the usual rules of farming do not apply. It is a one-family experiment station where Steven and Robin Smith grow all manner of fruits, from apples to wampees, in some 400 varieties, very likely the most of any vendor at farmers markets.
6:04 PM EST, March 2, 2012
When Tara Kolla of Silver Lake Farms returned to the Hollywood farmers market last Sunday for the first time in three years, her flower stand was a riot of color, with sweet peas, ranunculus and snapdragons, and her customers were rapturous, but her eyes were rimmed with tears.
February 17, 2012
As certified farmers markets have proliferated in recent years, it may appear as if everyone and his uncle is getting into the game. Some vendors indeed are flourishing, but others have been stretched thin by the expansion and resulting dilution of farmers markets. Selling at farmers markets has always involved manifold risks, inefficiencies and frustrations, but in the last year, likely because of the weak economy, quite a few longtime or prominent vendors have withdrawn from the markets or are considering doing so. Each has his own reasons, but together they tell a story: Surviving at farmers markets is increasingly tough for many growers.
February 10, 2012
The Dekopon, a Japanese hybrid of mandarin and orange reputed to be the most delicious citrus in the world, created a sensation last year when California-grown fruit showed up at local groceries under the marketing name Sumo, after a dozen years of secrecy and intrigue. The new crop has started arriving at stores and will be available at the Santa Monica farmers market starting next Wednesday from the Dekopon kingpin himself, Mike George of Lindsay, who grows 16 acres of the variety and organized the group that secured the rights to it.
February 3, 2012
The desolate, scrubby plain around Ridgecrest, where the Sierra Nevada meets the Great Basin and the Mojave desert, might seem an incongruous source for tomatoes, especially in the middle of winter. Nevertheless, Scott and Gale Shacklett, who go by the name of TomatoMan, manage to produce superior, flavorful tomatoes in more than half an acre of greenhouses here, where sonic booms from the China Lake Naval Air Weapons Station shatter the silence.
January 27, 2012
Midwinter is prime citrus season for both the San Joaquin Valley and Southern California districts, with an abundance of excellent mandarins, oranges, tangelos and lemons. The one laggard is conventional grapefruit, which, as grown in these two areas will be too sour for most palates for a couple of months or more. By compensation, we have three fine locally adapted grapefruit-like hybrids, Oroblanco, Melogold and Cocktail "grapefruit," which are at their peak right now.
1:47 PM EST, January 20, 2012
Although most of the larger farmers markets in Southern California have at least one vendor of cultivated mushrooms, the great majority of these buy from large commercial producers and so must sell in the non-certified section or under a second certificate arrangement. There's not necessarily anything wrong with that, but it takes just a glance at the pristine and tender shiitake and oyster mushrooms that Fred Ellrott grows and picks himself, to see that there is a real advantage to the consumer in buying mushrooms direct from the producer.
2:36 PM EST, January 13, 2012
— One of very few goat dairies in Southern California, and one of the newest and best cheese vendors at local certified farmers markets, is Drake Family Farms, which started selling an excellent fresh, mild chevre cheese a little over a year ago. It remains to be seen, however, whether its high quality and local production will allow it to overcome the brutal economics of artisanal, farmstead cheesemaking in a world of cheap commodity cheese.
January 6, 2012
While Southern Californians have enjoyed balmy weather over the last week, some citrus growers in the San Joaquin Valley are still coping with the aftermath of harrowing cold last month, the longest stretch of subfreezing temperatures on record in the area. In general, the state's commercial citrus industry appears to have escaped without disastrous losses, and this season is shaping up as a good one, but some of the small growers who sell at farmers markets lost significant portions of their crops, and it behooves shoppers to be alert for damaged fruit over the coming weeks.
January 3, 2012
Jerry Dimitman, a retired professor of plant pathology at Cal Poly Pomona who regularly caused an uproar when he showed up to sell his exotic fruit at the Alhambra farmers market, died Dec. 14 of a stroke at his home overlooking the San Gabriel Valley. He was 91.
December 23, 2011
Colored kale plants with red or purple centers and greenish outer leaves have long been popular as ornamental plants, for home gardens and street landscaping. Although edible, they were really more beautiful than delicious; but several newer varieties that have become available at farmers markets in recent years offer exceptionally sweet flavor and tender texture in addition to striking appearance. They're at their best in midwinter and add festive color to holiday tables.
December 16, 2011
In the last two decades, there's been a tremendous surge in production of artisanal olive oil in California as consumers have developed an appreciation for the freshness, high quality and distinctive flavors that good locally produced oil can provide. This boom has carried over into farmers markets, where there has been a rush of new vendors, although many of them are not certified producers who are required to grow what they sell. Of the olive growers who are, one of the most intriguingly local is Joyce Lukon of Robinson Road Olive Ranch, who harvested her small crop last Sunday from a hillside next to her home in Topanga.
3:09 PM EST, December 9, 2011
A few California farmers have long pushed the envelope by trying to grow crops like pineapples or lychees that are really a bit too tropical for local conditions but still tantalizing in their possibilities. A case in point is the mango, which just barely gets enough heat in the scorching Coachella desert to merit being grown commercially; all the more amazing that Markov Farms of Valley Center, located in a coastal climate zone even less well adapted to the fruit, is finally starting to market its crop at farmers markets, albeit with a catch.
December 2, 2011
The last decade or so has seen a remarkable boom in the quantity and variety of limes and lime-like fruits available in the United States. California has become the leading domestic producer, albeit by default, and late autumn is prime season for limes, especially at farmers markets, where the ripeness, freshness and diversity of limes is unbeatable. But the interplay of variety, growing areas and seasons can be confusing, and the nomenclature, as well as the very concept of what is a "lime," is unclear.
5:49 PM EST, November 25, 2011
With the partial exception of Bartletts, great locally grown pears are scarce at farmers markets in Southern California, where warm winters and disease render cultivation problematic. This makes it all the more special that Al Courchesne of Frog Hollow Farm, a rock star organic fruit grower from Brentwood, Calif., an hour east of San Francisco, will make a cameo appearance the next two Wednesdays at the Santa Monica farmers market to sell his legendary Warren pears.
November 18, 2011
The Cuyama Valley is just 30 miles northeast of Santa Barbara and two hours from downtown Los Angeles, but it's a world of its own, rimmed by stark, rugged mountains, sparsely populated and little known. At the extreme southern end of the valley, the location where Cuyama Orchards grows apples is particularly remote, surrounded by the Los Padres National Forest, with only bobcats and bears as neighbors; it has no telephone lines or cellphone reception, and when it rains hard, the adjacent Cuyama River floods the only incoming road for a week or more.
1:56 PM EST, November 11, 2011
— Southern California lies along an ocean that once abounded in seafood and still produces a catch of considerable quantity and diversity. Why is it, then, that so little of the fish at farmers markets is sold directly by those who catch it?
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