Not any paper cup. The iconic blue-and-white version stamped with heroically steaming coffee and the immortal slogan: "We are happy to serve you." The paper goods professional knows this product by its reorder code name: the Anthora. The New Yorker knows it by its order code name: coffee. It's a highly regional cup. One filled millions of times a year.
The Anthora mixes high and low. Sugar and cream. Hot and cool.
The Anthora has been imitated. Recast in porcelain and vinyl. Reworked as T-shirt. Repurposed into coin purse. But its pleasing design remains unchanged. It captures the ancient Greek virtues of beauty, truth, symmetry and — at 8 ounces — moderation. It endures, as Keats would have it in his "Ode on a Grecian Urn," "For ever warm and still to be enjoy'd."
We raise a cup to coffee's finest vessel. And the late, of late, Leslie Buck, for making the New York morning 8 ounces happier.
Coffee ice cream
Active: 20 minutes
Chill: Several hours
Makes: 4 servings
4 ounces milk chocolate, chopped
4 egg yolks
1 1/2 cups whipping cream
1 1/4 cups whole milk
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup (2 shots) prepared espresso
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1 Prep: Tumble chocolate into a medium bowl. Set aside. Pour egg yolks in another medium bowl. Whisk briefly.
2 Simmer: Measure cream, milk and sugar into a large saucepan. Set over medium-high heat and bring to a simmer.
3 Temper: Pour a little hot cream mixture over yolks, whisking constantly. Pour in the remaining cream mixture, whisking constantly. Pour back into the pan and heat, whisking constantly, until slightly thickened and 175 degrees, 3 minutes.
4 Freeze: Strain mixture into chocolate. Let steep, 3 minutes. Stir. Stir in espresso and vanilla. Let cool. Chill. Churn. Enjoy.
Provenance: Inspired by Alice Medrich's "Bittersweet."