Grilled tilapia

Grilling fish wrapped in leaves is a technique utilized in other cuisines, mostly Asian and Mexican. (Bill Hogan/Chicago Tribune)

I haven't been fishing with my dad since early high school. Yet every single time I cook or order fish, I think of my father. Reason being that fish and fishing always take center stage in his favorite stories. Overturned canoes, rainbow trout the size of his arm, the deep chill of the rivers out West, perfect fly-fishing conditions, the quantity of beer my brothers and cousin bring, the guides, the waters, the beauty of the catch and more. Thousands of photographs attest to the glistening skin, bulging eyes and utter freshness of the fish he's briefly met.

Mind you his best stories never involve actually eating the fish, save for a shore lunch or two. His fishing is for the sport, the camaraderie of guys, the solitude of water. The cooking of fish primarily centers on his home grill, with fish carefully selected at reputable markets. He's taught us the fine art of grilling over charcoal embers. This Father's Day we'll return the favor and grill for him.

Carefully that is, since grilling fish offers lots of room for errors: fire too hot, fish too thin, fish breaks while turning, fish underseasoned, etc.

My solution: Don't cook fish directly on the grill. Instead, I opt for grill accessories such as grilling baskets, perforated pans and silicone grill mats. My favorite fish grilling accoutrements, such as wood planks and sturdy fresh leaves, also add flavor.

Grilling fish wrapped in leaves is a technique utilized in other cuisines, mostly Asian and Mexican. I'm particularly fond of seasoning mild-tasting fish fillets with zesty curry paste and grilling them wrapped in aromatic leaves such as banana leaves. These packets make the cooking nearly foolproof since the leaf prevents the fish from sticking to the grill and it holds in moisture to prevent drying.

You'll find banana leaves in the freezer section of most Mexican markets, international supermarkets (such as Tony's in the Chicago area) and Asian grocery stores. Simply let the leaves thaw on the counter until you can unfold them and cut off the squares needed for the recipe. The remaining leaves can be refrozen for later use.

Like many fathers, my dad believes in the flavor of wood paired with the crisp, clean flavors of seafood. He cooks on hardwood charcoal only; we usually follow suit. However, both the recipes that follow taste fantastic on the gas grill as well. Especially when cooking on the wood grilling planks readily available at Whole Foods, Williams-Sonoma and most specialty cookware shops.

For the planked fish recipe, I choose thick, meaty Copper River salmon, Alaskan King salmon and Alaskan halibut. Their season pairs perfectly with Father's Day.

I like to serve the brown sugar grilled fish with a side salad of lime-dressed watercress and grill-roasted potatoes. We make variations of these grilled potato packets all summer long. Pair them with anything you grill or transform them into warm salads. Saute leftover potatoes in a little olive oil the next day until crispy and browned, then stir in chunks of leftover grilled fish for a quick grilled "hash." It's the stuff of fish stories for the next generation.

Brown sugar grilled salmon on cedar planks

Prep: 10 minutes
Soak: 30 minutes or more
Cook: 12 minutes
Servings: 4


2 wood grilling planks, such as cedar, alder, maple

1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar

2 tablespoons whole-grain Dijon mustard

1 ½ teaspoons chili powder

¼ teaspoon salt

4 wild-caught salmon fillets, about 8 ounces each, rinsed, patted dry

Fresh herbs

1. Soak planks in water, at least 30 minutes or up to 4 hours.