Building a better chicken

At the table, you'll find a chicken that's deeply flavored, that "tastes like a chicken," as Wilson says.

Halfway between Louisville, known for bourbon and hot browns, and Lexington, known for fast horses and blue grasses, lives a rare bird indeed.

But whether that's David Wilson or his chicken is up to you to decide.

David Wilson's roast chicken

Prep: 10 minutes
Cook: 1 hour
Servings: 3 to 4

Note: This recipe is David Wilson's recommended method for roasting his chickens. The flavor of the birds is so good that a simple preparation is best.

1 chicken, 2 3/4 to 3 1/2 pounds
Olive oil
1/4 teaspoon salt, or more as needed
Freshly ground pepper
1 medium lemon
A fistful of mixed fresh herbs (thyme, parsley, marjoram, rosemary)
1 clove garlic, smashed, peeled

1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Rinse the chicken under cold running water; pat dry. Rub it all over with olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Cut the lemon in half; squeeze the juice over the bird. Put the halves into the chicken's cavity. Add to the cavity the fresh herbs — they don't need to be chopped or anything. Add the garlic to the cavity.

2. Roast the bird in a pan on a rack, 1 hour. It should be done by then, its skin crisp and brown, but check if you like by jiggling the leg and piercing the breast with a fork. The chicken is done if the leg moves easily and the juices from the breast run clear. Let the chicken stand 20 minutes before carving.

Nutrition information:
Per serving: calories 377, 22 g fat, 6 g saturated fat, 131 mg cholesterol, 1 g carbohydrates, 41 g protein, 267 mg sodium, 0 g fiber.

To order
French Fields will ship two chickens second-day air — FedEx or UPS — for $50 east of Kansas City. (West of there, the price is a bit higher.) The chickens will arrive icy but not frozen and can be frozen after they arrive. To order, call 502-671-3942 or go to frenchfields-llc-M60329?ul.

Mather is a senior associate editor at Mother Earth News and the author of "The Feast Nearby."