The Davis, Calif., brewpub Sudwerk specializes in classic German beers. For its 20th anniversary, it's stepping out a little with this brew, which has nothing but a great big S for a label. It's an "imperialized" Pilsner — that is, amped up with more hops, more malt and more alcohol (7%, as against the typical 5% for this style).
It has a huge, dense head like a proper Pilsner, with a clean, floral nose. The malt makes it noticeably sweeter, though not as sweet as a bock. The main effect of the hops is not so much aroma or bitterness but a neat cleanup of the finish, which starts on the sweet side but dries up smoothly in a matter of seconds.
It would go well with many foods, particularly grilled sausages and chicken. The malt level makes it particularly suited to cheese nachos.
— Charles Perry
Style: An extra-big Pilsner, still graceful despite having its hiking boots on.
Price: $5.29 to $5.99 per 22-ounce bottle.
Where to find it: Beverage Warehouse in Los Angeles, (310) 306-2822, http://www.beveragewarehouse.com; Wade's Wines in Westlake Village, (818) 597-9463, http://www.wadeswines.com; Total Wine stores (for locations, go to http://www.totalwine.com); and Beverages and More stores (for locations, visit http://www.bevmo.com).