The city of Williamsburg is known for many things, but rarely is it considered hip. Culture Cafe, which launched last September, aims to rectify that.
The restaurant was founded by David Everett, who is also behind other local darlings like Blue Talon Bistro and the Trellis Bar and Grill. Louise Wood and Scott Hoyland have worked with Everett for more than a decade, and that paid off when he offered the pair ownership of Culture.
“We were fooling around with the idea of doing something down and dirty.” Hoyland said.
While many other establishments play to the city’s tourist-centric Colonial scene, Culture is meant for the locals.
It’s located near William and Mary’s campus, near established Friday-night favorites like Paul’s Deli and Brickhouse Tavern. But Culture tries something different.
“We don’t offer the same things,” Wood said. “I don’t think we compete with them.”
Bob Harris, the senior vice president of tourism for the Greater Williamsburg Chamber and Tourism Alliance, said it’s quieter than its neighbors and thus it can appeal across different demographics.
“It’s a totally different product,” Harris said. “It’s not necessarily a party place.”
Culture’s goal is more upscale. It doesn’t stay open as late as its competitors. It caters to all three meals of the day, with specialty coffees and craft brews to complement the dishes offered. The bar does still play a large role as well, and its presence looms large upon entry.
The restaurant’s focus is as much on conversation as it is on the food. The menu is dominated by small plates.
“You don’t have to stuff yourself,” Harris said. “That’s one of the unique things there.”
Most offerings are $10 or less, a deliberate decision meant to encourage trying multiple new things and sharing with friends.
“Pretty much anyone is going to find something that they like,” Harris said.
“You can actually order a lot more and have a more diverse dining experience without breaking the bank,” Wood said, but she was quick to clarify that their goal is not light eating. “We’re not light eaters.”
Rabbits are a common theme at Culture; one is featured on the logo and the sign outside, and there are several portraits inside with hare heads applied to portraits previously depicting people.
“They nibble a lot,” Wood said.
Culture takes inspiration from the dining scenes of New York City, Washington and even Richmond.
“There’s nowhere in Williamsburg that offers what we have,” Wood said. “It feels like a city.”
“There’s such a great food scene in Richmond,” Hoyland said. “Williamsburg is growing into that.”
Focus on diversity
Diversity is a cornerstone of the establishment.
“The influence is culture,” Wood said. “We want to bring a mix, an infusion of everything. It’s about experimenting with different styles of cuisine and coming out with something phenomenal.”
The culinary influences come from around the world, seen in their German curry wurst and Moroccan meatballs. Wood hails from England and spent time living in France, experiences that she said add further substance to the menu.
The establishment’s general manager is Italian; Wood said this adds further distinction to the melting pot of a menu.
“It’s really, really cool,” Hoyland, who also serves as chef, said. “It’s a melting pot of food. It’s food that’s boiled down in its simplest fashion.”
There’s little time wasted on fancy garnishes or other potential distractions.
“It’s so simple but it’s so tasty,” he said. “That’s really what food is all about now. The simpler, the better.”
Their appreciation of culture extends beyond the food. The decor is equally varied.
“Everything has a story to it,” Wood said.
She designed the walls, adorned with pop culture icons like Marilyn Monroe and old newspapers with such historical headlines as, “The war is over!” Maya Angelou’s poem, “Human Family,” dominates a wall near the bar.
That extends down to the kitchen equipment. Items come from salvage yards, thrift stores and everywhere in between.
“Everything in here has some history,” Wood said. “All of us put our passion and love into everything. “
“It all works together,” Hoyland said. “It’s so bohemian and eclectic, I think it works. You feel right at home.”
The restaurant’s general manager worked on the building’s columns, covered in pages of old books. Everett is a self-taught carpenter and contributed there. Hoyland added hanging lanterns to the atmosphere.
“We have a lot of talent,” Wood said. “It’s not just cooking.”
Their intention with all of it is to foster an inclusive environment where anyone can relax and enjoy themselves. This applies even to the restrooms, which are gender neutral.
“There needs to be a place where everybody is welcome,” Wood said.
Harris said he’s noticed a positive response to Culture’s direction.
“Everyone’s just really responding to it well,” he said, adding that people he’s talked with commented on the hip, scholastic feel. “People don’t expect that, but they like it.”
Harris said that it seems to stay busy when he goes, with students often studying or reading there. He likened the atmosphere to the TV show “Friends,” with its cozy and inviting feel. The establishment’s youthful exuberance can benefit those past their college years, too.
“It makes us feel younger,” Harris said.
New territory
Hoyland and Wood have experienced restaurant openings before, but their new ownership roles required some adjusting after opening last September.
“It was pretty scary, actually,” Wood said. She’s since adjusted, although it still doesn’t always feel real. “Sometimes, you want to pinch yourself.”
She credits Everett’s and Hoyland’s “immense amount of experience” as part of their success.
“It’s more a lifetime of being in the business than anything, and being confident in your business,” she said. “The key thing is believing in your staff. They’re going to sell your product and they’ve got to believe in you.”
They aim to frequently change up the menu, adding daily specials and new dishes including vegetarian and vegan options.
Culture’s creators are still figuring things out as they go, navigating a far different realm than Colonial Williamsburg, home to the Trellis and Blue Talon. Closer to campus, it’s rife with parking problems, more established neighbors and a uniquely college-aged clientele. The goal now is trying to increase business.
“It’s good now,” Hoyland said. “It needs to be great.”
They intend to capitalize on word of mouth, glowing Yelp reviews and the ever-popular Instagram pastime of sharing pictures of meals.
“People as a whole are creatures of habit.” The trick, then, is getting them into the habit of Culture. “Once they do, they’re coming back all the time.”
At the end of the food-filled day, however, it’s about the cuisine and the company with whom you share it.
“Food has been my life,” Wood said. She calls Hoyland her husband, although they aren’t married. But their love for each other is as clear as their love for food.
“It’s just so natural for us,” she said. Her “husband” agrees.
“It’s our lifestyle,” Hoyland said. “It’s more like that European lifestyle.”
As for Wood’s favorites at Culture, she recognizes the shrimp tacos and Jamaican meat pie. Hoyland is more inclusive with his choice: “everything.” He loves it all.
“Food is a living product,” Hoyland said. “It just brings people so much happiness. Chefs really concentrate on food that hugs you back.”
Williamsburg hugs back too, and Hoyland is grateful to live in such a small town that’s managed such a major impact on his life.
“It’s just so much more rewarding,” he said. “It’s so cool because you’re cooking for your friends all the time.”
Birkenmeyer can be reached by phone at 757-390-3029.
