If you're a light sleeper, avail yourself of the earplugs on your bedside table at Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm [4803 Rio Grande Blvd. N.W., Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, N.M.; (505) 344-9297]. They're to keep you from waking up to the cries of the peacocks that patrol the chef's garden, snacking on insects. My husband, Paul, and I heard the peacocks only once during our October weekend at this charming 22-room inn on the outskirts of Albuquerque. In fact, Los Poblanos is blissfully serene. It is ideal for guests who enjoy taking bucolic walks, riding bikes on the nearby 16-mile-long trail along the Rio Grande and dining on fresh field-to-fork cuisine.
The tab: $560 for two nights with breakfast (including taxes and fees), $225 for meals and pueblo tour plus taxes, car rental and airfare.
Los Poblanos is set on 25 acres of what was once a sprawling land grant dating to 1716. The buildings were designed as a home in 1932 by architect John Gaw Meem, called "the father of Santa Fe Style." Our guest room featured a king-sized four-poster bed, antique Southwestern furnishings and a kiva-style fireplace. The inn is adding 28 guest rooms and restoring the historic dairy barn to house a new restaurant, bar, bakery and retail shop.
The inn's friendly staff takes pride in serving cuisine made with fresh organic ingredients sourced from Los Poblanos' fields and neighboring farms — not only eggs, honey and produce, but also succulent pork. Our meals were delectable, but if I had to choose a favorite dish it would be the creamy blue-corn breakfast polenta with pecorino cheese, ham and two poached eggs.
When I booked our room, I signed up for the recommended Acoma Pueblo tour. One morning we drove an hour west to a secluded valley where Sky City, the ancient pueblo of the Acoma people, sits atop a 370-foot-tall mesa. A guide led us through the tiny village of adobe structures as he related the turbulent history of the Acoma, who trace their ancestry to 1100. I found the experience eye-opening and unexpectedly spiritual.